Panthenol
Panthenol (provitamin B5): small studies in healthy skin found some hydration benefit and faster recovery from irritation caused in a test.
What it is
Panthenol, also called dexpanthenol or provitamin B5, is converted in the skin into pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), which is part of coenzyme A. Coenzyme A helps make the fats that hold the skin's outer layer together (Proksch 2002). Both studies cited below tested dexpanthenol in a cream or ointment base against the same base without it.
Evidence grades by concern
| Concern | Grade | Citations |
|---|---|---|
| Transient dehydration | C | Gehring 2000 |
| Chronic barrier impairment | C | Proksch 2002 |
| Contact irritation / allergy-prone | C | Proksch 2002 |
| Persistent erythema | C | Proksch 2002 |
Grade A: strong guideline recommendations or Korean MFDS notified actives. B: randomized controlled trials or systematic reviews. C: mechanism, small or uncontrolled studies.
What the evidence shows
Transient dehydrationC
In randomized, double-blind tests on the forearms of healthy volunteers (three groups of 20, 60 in total), seven days of dexpanthenol was compared with the same oily base without it (Gehring 2000). The results varied: only one of the three groups did better than the base on both skin water content and water loss. In another group water loss improved but water content did not rise beyond what the base alone achieved, and in the third, water loss did not differ. Because the volunteers had healthy skin that was not dry, this does not show the effect on dehydrated skin. We grade this as C.
Chronic barrier impairmentC
In 20 healthy volunteers, the skin barrier was damaged on purpose with a detergent (sodium lauryl sulphate) in patch tests. A dexpanthenol cream applied twice a day sped up barrier repair and improved hydration compared with the same cream without it, each applied to a randomly chosen arm (Proksch 2002). This was short-term damage made in a test, not long-lasting dry or damaged skin, so we grade this as C for long-lasting barrier problems.
Contact irritation / allergy-proneC
In the same detergent-irritation test, the dexpanthenol cream significantly reduced skin redness, a sign of inflammation, while the cream without dexpanthenol had no effect (Proksch 2002). The irritation was caused on purpose in a test, so the study does not show how it works for reactions to new skincare products. The manufacturer funded this single study and we found no independent repeat, so we grade this as C.
Persistent erythemaC
The evidence is indirect. The only study we cite measured redness that faded within about a week after irritation caused in a test (Proksch 2002), not redness that does not go away. Our evidence file names no review or trial on persistent redness. We grade this as C.
What it does not do
The studies cited here lasted days to weeks and measured hydration, water loss and short-term irritation; they do not show that panthenol treats long-term skin conditions or persistent redness. Both studies were small (60 and 20 people) and were done in healthy volunteers.
Safety
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel conclusion: safe (report year 2022; IJT 41(S3):77-128).
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References
- Gehring W, Gloor M. Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. Results of a human in vivo study. Arzneimittelforschung. 2000;50(7):659-663.
- Proksch E, Nissen HP. Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation. J Dermatolog Treat. 2002;13(4):173-178.